A Word with your Wardrobe: Pre-Rondelet notes on the James Bond look

By Deanne Nguyen     2/12/09 6:00pm

What happened to those days when men polished to the tips of their shoes and dressed to the nines simply to go out for brunch? Where is the man who makes ladies do double takes with raised eyebrows, intrigued not by his chiseled arms or exposed physique but by the thought of what his tie might look like loosened and discarded? What became of the men who left something to the imagination, the gentlemen on the forefront, those knights in their crisp suits? I sure don't know, but one thing is certain: They just don't make men like they used to.Granted, Rice males are 20-something-year-old students who have things to do, grades to save and little time to take care of their daily appearances, but what can be said about a man who seems to be under an even greater level of pressure, with stresses unrivaled? How does one explain why James Bond looks so damn good all the time?

Although his ludicrously vast pool of wealth accounts for the luxury brands Bond can afford, money is not sentient, and it alone cannot buy style. Many men with large sums of dough at their disposal have the same problems as average men: They are unable to choose for themselves clothes that make them look good.

Bond's creators, however, have empowered him with style that not only looks incredibly smart for the time, but that also transcends generations, thereby making him the ultimate style icon for men of all ages. Here are some lessons to take from Bond's impeccable wardrobe.

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Fit

The classic Bond look is either a sharply tailored suit and tie or a stunning tuxedo, but the importance of fit remains.

The tux is for black-tie, gala, high-profile or just very formal events. It can be thought of as a "souped-up" suit, for it tends to be embellished with satin finishes on the jacket lapel and the pants. The tux is often worn with either a vest or a cummerbund, but never both at once. Bond wears black or white tuxedos with a black bow tie.

The suit is essential and can be considered the Bond uniform. It is less strict in terms of where and how it can be worn, but there are rules nonetheless. All suits are composed of straight legged pants and a sports blazer or jacket with a fitted, collared shirt. Bond prefers suits in neutral colors of tan or khaki for daylight casual and a darker variety of gray, black and navy for meetings and nightly escapades.

The jacket is the most important part of the outfit: It sets that undeniably masculine tone of his presence. It does this by creating the illusion of a V-shaped torso of strong, broad shoulders and a tapering chest to the waist.

Bond's shoulder pads hit right above and a smidge beyond where the shoulders slope into his arm. Think power, not '80s.

The jacket can have up to three buttons. Four, and it not only looks like you're trying too hard but is also restricting. Bond does not fasten up entirely unless he is sporting a double-breasted variety. He buttons only at the narrowest point on his waist, where the middle button should hit if it's a three-button coat or the top one on a two-piece variety. It's less restricting this way and less awkward in appearance.

The pants and jacket hems are very important. You'll want to look like you own the suit, not like you're playing dress-up in your daddy's old clothes. Pant legs should be long enough to cover the socks and short enough to skim the rims of the shoes without dragging. Bond jackets are never longer than where the hips end.

The dress shirt is always fitted to Bond's body; otherwise, he comes off as almost juvenile and not in control of the extra fabric that refuses to be tucked in. So, fitted it must be.

Bond does sport polos and T-shirts for his tropical endeavors, and shorts are not at all taboo for the Bond image. In fact, keep in mind that he is European, and they often wear them on the short side.

Yes, Bond wears jeans. In fact, he wore Levi's in Quantum of Solace. Again, straight-leg only. Boot-cut and skinny are too trendy and thus out of the question.

Flair

Bond does not use accessories to show off bits of his personality; his actions do plenty of that. Instead, they are meant to compliment what he's already wearing and nothing more.

Color coordination is a must. The color of the pants needs to match the jacket exactly or as closely as possible. The shirt and tie have to play nicely together, and socks are to match the shade of the shoes.

Bond occasionally wears a pocket square in his suit or tuxedo pocket. The color should match the tie or shirt.

Though he does venture into the bright reds, pinks and yellows for ties, Bond sticks to stripes, solid colors or understated patterns.

In terms of watches, Bond has a little more fun. He's played with a variety of face shapes and band materials, and he even had a digital watch at one point, but they all share the same hardware appeal: large face (square or circle) and either black or silver. No gold, though.

Form and final touches

Bond is a flashy character, yes, but not one to flash brand labels. You have to listen hard to realize his watch isn't ticking, or look closely to see that his shoes cost a small fortune.

Everything appears more expensive when it looks like it was made uniquely for the person wearing it. Getting clothes tailored rather than trying to find new shirts is always easier and cheaper in the long run.

Bond often does not wear a belt, and why should he? Pants should be able to hold themselves up.

Finally, Bond doesn't slouch unless his job requires him to.

Though his regimen seems strict, it's a small price to pay, for the result is an apparently effortless look that does not demand attention but commands it. With every suit or piece of activewear worn over the decades, Bond's dress code has always been about the subtleties of finer details and not about overly complicated pieces. And though each movie does flirt with the fashion trends of the time to appease the audience, all Bonds maintain for themselves a subdued color palette and a consciousness of fit over flair.

Upon even closer inspection, James Bond's style is actually quite simple and requires only that the garment in question matches and contours well to his body. This is more of an old-fashioned approach to dressing, but unlike with women, looking too put together as a man is never a bad thing, especially when it's combined with a little hint of confidence. This is the basis of the Bond appeal, the Bond look and the reason it is the epitome of timeless menswear; It can speak volumes for a man and make a girl come hither without saying a word. And, gentlemen, isn't that what it's really all about?

Deanne Nguyen is a Will Rice College sophomore.

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