Relish: A frenzy for fresh fish

By Tim Pawul & Mimi Arnold     11/19/09 6:00pm

Have you been craving seafood? We don't mean fried catfish out of a box or popcorn shrimp in the servery, but fresh, succulent fish, oysters, mussels, crabs and shrimp - the good stuff. If any of that sounds delicious - and it really should, if you have any taste - then Denis' Seafood House is the place for you. With its diverse menu, plentiful portions and a guarantee of freshness, you'll find it hard to walk away unsatisfied.Before we get to the goods, keep a few things in mind: First, the restaurant is not close; expect to drive upwards of half an hour. Additionally, if you look online, the happy hour menu seems great, but be aware of its misprint: Contrary to the advertisement, happy hour ends at 7 p.m., not 9 p.m., an obvious disappointment to yours truly. Also, if you come for happy hour, you will have to sit at the bar. These are just minor annoyances, though, and hardly detract from the overall experience.

Ambiance

The restaurant has a peculiar atmosphere, mixing somewhat conflicting moods and settings of both a five-star restaurant and a run-of-the-mill diner. It accomplishes the former feel by utilizing dimmed lighting, attracting a sophisticated clientele, providing classy service and placing hints of upscale decor around the restaurant.

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On the other hand, the exterior's grating neon lights are akin to those of a movie theater or breakfast diner. In addition, the fish board hanging on the wall was written in brightly colored chalk, a somewhat-tacky touch, completely inconsistent with the restaurant's upscale atmosphere. We felt the atmosphere was unprofessional for a restaurant of such high quality; however, this inconsistent and conflicting ambiance did not compromise the integrity or palatability of the meal.

Food

In a pleasant turn of events, our eyes were bigger than our stomachs, and we left Denis' with plenty of leftovers. Nevertheless, we feel that we indulged in a variety of dishes, which may have tipped our scales in favor of the restaurant, but left us well versed with the menu.

As an appetizer, we ordered crab, spinach and artichoke dip, which was tasty and plentiful but lacked any significant crab element. It was nice, not extraordinary, but it set the table well enough for the main meal.

Mimi ordered the savory blackened red fish with crawfish etouffee sauce on top, which came with two sides; she chose fried onion rings and garlic mashed potatoes. The fish was noticeably fresh and exquisitely cooked, but the etouffee could boast neither a strong nor spicy flavor, and the consistency was unusually and unappetizingly thick.

Tim ordered Oysters Rockefeller - a platter of six New Orleans-style baked oysters, served with creamed spinach on top - and enjoyed the lobster bisque with a guest we brought along for the ride. The dish was cooked to perfection, just as mouth-watering as oysters Tim enjoyed in New Orleans.

Overall, we felt that Denis' seafood and shellfish selection was not only of the highest quality but prepared in a variety of unique dishes and cooking techniques. Its authenticity was never lacking, and we carried our leftovers out with a knowing smile.

Service

Our waiter was decently personable and helpful with the menu, and he seemed to take great pride in his work at Denis'. His service may have been on the slow side, but he was honest with his recommendations and paid attention to our needs.

Price

Denis', like Ciao Bello, is one of the more expensive restaurants we have reviewed thus far. The appetizers cost around $10, and the entrees cost between $20-$25. Nevertheless, the portions are enormous. The fish entrees also come with two side items, which are indomitably hefty in size, and provide enough food for almost two people.

However, if you wish to indulge yourself with one of the many delicious appetizers, we recommend ordering two appetizers as a meal, like Tim did, or ordering one of the smaller entrees in addition to an appetizer. This will not only help satisfy your stomach, but will also help cut costs.

Tim's recommended dish

In ordering the Oysters Rockefeller, Tim stepped outside his comfort zone and allowed his taste buds to cash in on the risk. Though the plate contained just six oysters, they were quite filling and were a breathtaking pleasure. The popular concern with oysters is a lack of quality and freshness, but do not worry - this is not something one should question at Denis'.

Mimi's recommended dish

Mimi went a bit overboard ordering the fish with the etouffee on top. The portions were already too big for her to handle, and the etouffee was not worth the extra $7. Nevertheless, the fish was deliciously cooked and surprisingly fresh. She suggests ordering some fresh fish cooked however you want it - grilled, broiled, blackened or sautéed.

Tim Pawul is a Sid Richardson College junior and Mimi Arnold is a Wiess College senior.

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