Relish: Going to Gravitas (Online only)

By Tim Pawul and Mimi Arnold     1/21/10 6:00pm

Open for brunch, lunch, dinner and, thankfully, happy hour, Gravitas is a stylish venue simmering with both imaginative cuisine and sensible fine dining in a low-pressure atmosphere. The offerings kept us satiated, the setting kept us cool and a new dish turned a heretofore meat-lover on his head. Ambiance

Though the restaurant's exterior is shabby, the interior is quite the opposite with a serene, dark and rustic atmosphere complemented by a clean, modernist aesthetic. The restaurant could provide a romantic setting if guests arrive with a date, but the area would also be appropriate for a family or friendly get-together. The mood is not pretentious, allowing for dress from business casual to dressy. The restaurant truly boasts guests celebrating every occasion, so don't be surprised to see engagement dinners or even birthdays when you enter the doors.

Food

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Gravitas' founder, Chef Scott Tycer, describes the venue as an American Bistro, and true to his word, the menu is thoughtfully varied and a beautiful characterization of the 2melting-pot culture. The fusion dishes are very original and run the gamut from venison chili to risotto to smoked ham and po-boys, giving a new twist to American and ethnic classics. The menu may lack detail, but it encompasses a broad spectrum of cuisines.

For the first course, Mimi ordered the salmon tartar and Tim ordered the stuffed calamari. The excellence of the salmon tartar caught us by surprise, uniquely combining the flavors of avocado, soy, chili, greens and raw salmon in a complementary way that somehow didn't clash. The stuffed calamari was less impressive, not yet rid of its unseasoned fishiness, and it wasn't fried, which is really the best way to serve calamari.

For the second course, we shared the potato gnocchi appetizer, which was delicately exquisite, tasting like clouds of potato pillows melting in our mouths. For the final course, Mimi ordered the lamb shank and Tim the onion bread pudding. The lamb shank fell off the bone but lacked robust flavor, leaving the risotto as the highlight of the dish. Tim - a diehard meat lover - found his appetite captivated by the unconventional onion bread pudding. This dish combined leeks, yellow onions and scallions into a bread pudding and was topped with ricotta cheese, proving to be a hearty, yet healthy, delight.

Price

Of everything we ordered, the tartar and the onion bread pudding were the most reasonably priced in terms of quantity and quality. The meat and fish entrees were all pretty expensive, though Gravitas boasts a wine list that rivals the menu's variety in terms of length, regional diversity and price. The appetizers cost around $10-$14 each, and the entrées run between $20-$25. Desserts are $7.

Service

The service was a nice complement to the filling meal and the easygoing atmosphere. The waiter was friendly and attentive without being too intrusive, and the courses were spread out comfortably, with everything coming out quickly enough to keep us from getting bored.

Mimi's Recommendation

Salmon tartar, no questions asked. The flavors mixed harmoniously and with clear innovation. If you go to Gravitas, don't miss this light yet flavorful dish. Out of all the restaurants we have reviewed, this is one of the best dishes.

Tim's Recommendation

Onion bread pudding. Sure, it may sound like a strange combination of ingredients, but the flavorful pudding didn't disappoint. If you're tired of steaks and ribs, give the pudding a try.

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