Taco Trek: Doña Maria's strikes back

By Yan Digilov and Ben Lopez     2/4/10 6:00pm

Some weeks are for burritos, and some weeks are for fajitas. But last week, fellow taco enthusiasts, was a week for tacos. Which is why, along with unusually cold weather and the terrifying prospect of imminent exams, this week brings us another installment of Taco Trek.Last week, our taco trailblazers traveled to The Original Ninfa's, where they encountered a meal so far off the mark that it threatened their will to ever return to the famed Taco District.

But after a week of solemn soul- searching, our experts returned to the Taco District with a hunger so intense that Yan, upon opening his sleep-filled eyes, said prophetically, "Man, we are going to pig out."

Their destination, Doña Maria Mexican Café, is a newer, lesser-known restaurant than those the two had visited before. Located on the corner of Navigation Blvd. and Live Oak St., Doña Maria's exterior is painted several different colors on the outside and sports a wide variety of newspaper machines along the street in front.

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In other words, the initial appearance was quite promising. But would the product deliver?

Yan's Take

It was an auspicious morning, one of those days that really changes the way you look at things. Tacos were on the horizon. But there was something else, something bigger, something better.

Before I tackled the tantalizing tacos to come, I knew I would have to bring my spiritual guide, William Jason Peña Pasadi Garcia, along on the trip. On perhaps one of the most sensually exhilarating and visually stimulating treks into the Taco District, his humility kept my mind from wandering astray, helping me focus on what matters most: faith, family and tacos.

William's lovely mother grew up in these parts, just blocks away from the legendary Villa Arcos and The Original Ninfa's. Both she and my spiritual guide attended Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, which serves as the welcoming gates of the district. In elementary school, William was known for arriving in class with grease stains on his shirt, smelling strongly of chorizo.

With William's guidance, the three of us entered Doña Maria's, last week's disappointment out of mind. Immediately, the welcoming environment gave off the right kind of vibes. Sunday papers, fresh coffee and menus featuring a slew of $1.85 tacos got my blood running.

The decorations in the place screamed, "Sit back and relax! Don't take yourself so seriously, because you are about to have the time of your life."

And how right they were.

I ordered some classic favorites: bean and cheese, and potato, egg and cheese. The tortillas were warm and comforting. The pogg-chee was light, but not scarce, leaving my expectations around "nice-going" level.

And then it happened.

One bite of an unsuspecting culprit stunned me like Cupid's arrow dashing through my heart: the beans. Oh, the beans. The Juliet to my tastebuds' Romeo. The yin to Yan's yang. I just could not believe such a mundane part of my meal would impress so thoroughly. Each taste of the homemade frijoles spread my smile closer to my ears.

But the good times just kept rolling. Doña Maria's Mexicana taco with egg, tomatoes, onions and pepper was unique and refreshing. Then, a taco so delicious I would describe it as the Optimus Prime of tacos. With a name like "The Gordo," I knew to save it for last.

Potato and egg, combined with those heavenly beans and cheese, gave me the rush of a lifetime. It only got better when I dumped some of the filling from my flour tortilla into a homemade corn tortilla that nursed the Gordo like a warm bowl of vegetarian matzo ball soup on a winter day.

To be honest, I was embarrassed to show so much emotion in front of my spiritual guide. But I resigned myself to embrace the meal's perfect taste.

Somehow, like my lonely nights on chatroulette.com, it just got better and better. As I sat contemplating the trials and tribulations I had to endure to get there, the owner sat down at our table to chat about the history of Doña Maria's.

After serving as a Houston firefighter, the real-life hero and his wife decided to buy out a floundering Mexican restaurant in one of the most competitive taco regions in the country. Five years ago, the couple that had grown up just blocks away began rebuilding the place, infusing it with an atmosphere of authenticity and care.

He told us about the history of the region, how every taqueria on Navigation was run by old friends who had grown up together in a district once known more for being under-resourced than for being a weekend morning taco heaven.

In the corner of the restaurant sat the children, grandchildren, cousins and friends of the owners. A picture of the deceased Mamma Ana hung overhead, reminding everyone of the vision that opened a flour store on Navigation decades ago, and whose success helped put an entire household through college.

It was a story shared by Mama Ninfa's and Villa Arcos, who helped Doña Maria's get on its feet from the start. "There's enough dimes to go around," they told me, a message that best expresses the faith and friendship which can make a tub of greasy beans remind you of home.

Ben's Take

The morning started off well, a chilly Sunday where I found myself excited to search out some more delicious tacos. As we walked to our table in the brightly painted and creatively decorated restaurant, we grabbed sections of The New York Times and the Houston Chronicle, a nice touch left out for guests to read and discuss during their meal.

Doña Maria features a great menu packed with cheap tacos and larger temptations, such as the chilaquiles plate or a huge bowl of menudo. I ordered up a series of tacos: the classic potato and egg, the always-reliable bean and egg and a the tripas taco, favorite of my father's.

The food came quickly and our coffee cups stayed full. First up was the potato and egg, a swing and a miss, to say the least. This rendition of the classic featured potatoes that just hadn't been fried quite right and lacked the critical synergy with the accompanying egg.

However, the next offering fared much better: a chorizo-and-egg taco served on a piping hot, soft corn tortilla. The chorizo was plentiful and tasty, well-nuzzled in the perfect amount of egg. The tortilla was another delicacy in and of itself, delicate and fresh, almost stealing the focus away from the taco.

While both types of tortillas are made in-house, the corn tortillas of Doña Maria handily trump the flour selection. Another recommendation: Try beans with anything you order, as these are the saving grace to any problem you might encounter.

I saved the tripas for last, as this was the taco I was most excited about. I've shared the dish with my dad countless times and was excited for a taste of something so reminiscent of home. For those who don't know, tripas are the small intestines of a cow that are boiled until tender and then allowed to become crispy as the water boils off and the pieces of intestine finish cooking in their own reduced fat.

The taco here was mysterious; some bites were crispy and delicious, others soggy and greasy. If you've never had tripas before, don't let this be your first time; everyone else, proceed with caution.

They weren't the best tripas I've had - but they were also far from the worst. They were still quite delectable and for their cheap price, a bargain at every level.

As I was finishing up my meal, I looked over at Yan and noticed something strange. There was a certain look in his eye I had never seen before. Tears in his eyes, a smile - and beans - on his mouth, the man looked happier than I had ever seen him. For the duration of the meal he wouldn't speak or even acknowledge the surrounding environment while he had a taco in hand, drifting in and out of a trance-like state that can be described only by his words: "I want to come here everyday.

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