Veg Out: Delicious food and some confusion at Shiva

By Abigail Dock     10/28/10 7:00pm

Indian restaurants are usually safe havens for vegetarians, as India has a long history of vegetarian cuisine. Shiva does not disappoint and, in fact, offers a broader selection of dishes than most Indian restaurants. Now, if only they could remember what their own menu says.The appetizers are abundant and varied. Vegetable Pakora (fritters), Alloo Chaat (potatoes in tangy dressing) and Vegetable Samosas (potato pastries) are available individually or as a platter, which is supposed to include a selection of each. I ordered the veggie platter in an attempt to review the greatest variety of food, but when the dish arrived, it contained only fritters instead of the selection I had been led to believe was coming. I can only hope that my order was mixed up with another customer's, otherwise I must assume that the staff has no idea what is on the menu. Regardless, the fritters were excellent, freshly fried and hot out of the pan.

The main dishes range from traditional entrees such as Saag Paneer and Mattar Paneer (homemade cheese in spinach and peas, respectively) to inventive specialties of the house, like Dum Alloo Banarsi (potatoes stuffed with cheese, nuts and raisins). I opted for the Baingan Bartha (spiced eggplant), which did not disappoint. The spices were well layered with no single flavor overpowering the dish, and the texture of the eggplant was preserved while still giving the dish a smooth finish. The Dal Maharani was less successful, as the combination of lentils and red beans gave the dish a surprising Latin flair. I would also have preferred a puree, as it would have been easier to eat than the somewhat soupy dish that was presented.

At the very end of the menu, diners will find set dinners offering a full meal from appetizers to desserts at prices ranging from $12.95 to $15.95. Surprisingly enough, one of these four set dinners is vegetarian and offers a wide array of the restaurant's signature dishes. Vegans, however, should not order the vegetarian dinner, called Shiva's Delight, because only two of the eight items are made without ?animal products.

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The breads were the standout of the evening. Both the Papadum and Naan were fresh from the oven, fragrant and, in the case of the Papadum, delightfully spicy. The rice was a bit of a disappointment. The bill claimed it was saffron rice, but if there was any saffron in that dish, it was well-hidden.

The atmosphere of Shiva was not at all what one would expect from the outside of the restaurant. While many of the village eateries are built to accommodate the maximum number of customers without regard to comfort or noise level, Shiva has private curtained booths and tables set well apart from one another so that your conversation cannot be interrupted or overheard by the tables nearby. The waitstaff is helpful and attentive, and they are happy to offer recommendations and illuminate which options are vegan.

With no fewer than 16 entrees to choose from (nine of them vegan), the hungry vegetarian will find much to choose from and enjoy ?at Shiva.

Abigail Dock is a Jones College sophomore. Veg Out is a column reviewing vegetarian restaurants and their offerings.

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