The Last Concert Cafe

By Farrah Madanay     9/26/12 7:00pm

 

Just steps from Interstate 10 lies a gem full of delicious Tex-Mex food for those in the know. An inconspicuous little restaurant with a sordid history, The Last Concert Cafe is definitely a word-of-mouth kind of joint. The place does not advertise, and there is no sign outside. The front door remains locked at all times, and customers must knock twice to enter. This tradition dates back to the 1960s, when one of the biggest drug busts in Houston's history occurred within the cafe's walls. In its early days, the Last Concert was the place where a man could buy a meal and a good time - if you know what I mean. Customers were screened after knocking to keep the troublemakers away as well as the police. Today, it is merely a tradition kept alive to remember the past and add to the restaurant's mystique.

Though presently the restaurant operates on much more legal terms, the dining experience remains lively. With brightly painted red and green walls and Mexican knick-knacks adorning shelves throughout the room, the interior is cozy and inviting. The space extends outdoors to an unexpectedly large patio equipped with twinkling Christmas lights, banana trees and a stage for live music performances. The place is filled with music from a variety of acts every night during dinner.

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Audiences range from a tranquil two dozen on a Monday night to packed with bodies on the weekends. The crowd is an eclectic one, including local artists, construction workers, students and wealthy businessmen. All are drawn to the seemingly "underground" quality and delicious food of the Last Concert.

My meal at the Last Concert started off with thick tortilla chips and a decently spicy salsa. For my entree, I ordered the Burrito Grandiosa with shredded chicken smothered in queso. This burrito was indeed grandiose, about the size of my face, and about as hearty as they come. There were several different flavors in this one over-sized taco, so I was never bored while eating. My dining companions felt similarly about their food, which ranged from the cheese enchiladas to the guacamole tacos. One friend even went so far to say it was the best taco he had ever eaten. Granted, he is from Pittsburgh, but still. The menu is comprised of classic Tex-Mex food as well as a couple American options, like burgers. The specialty by far is the enchilada - all different types, and all covered in sauce.

The Last Concert is a hip place to be with some great food to boot. Entertainment is everywhere, and the history adds intrigue. Just be sure to check out the second building for seating. If the doors behind you look like they lead to hotel rooms, do not doubt your instincts. Fifty years ago, a "patron," if you will, did not have to walk too far from his good meal for some good company.

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