Rice University’s Student Newspaper — Since 1916

Thursday, November 28, 2024 — Houston, TX

Catherine Bratic & Sarah Rutledge


NEWS 5/16/10 7:00pm

Relish: Turning over Banana Leaf Malaysian

Tucked away in the corner of a freshly built shopping center, Banana Leaf Malaysian Cuisine initially seems to be just another Chinatown restaurant. Its bamboo decor and thatched-hut kitchen may be Asian kitsch, but the charming, if small, restaurant delivers fresh tastes and complex flavors.Malaysian food is a melange of Indian, Eurasian and Chinese cuisines, with curries, herbal soups and stir-fried noodle dishes. These numerous influences give a comforting glimmer of familiarity to anyone setting out to experience Malaysian cuisine for the first time, while still allowing diners the experience of exploring a new cuisine. The many hefty cultural influences shaping Banana Leaf's extensive menu are presented phonebook-style, like at many of the surrounding restaurants,. Appetizers run from $2.95 to $7.95, and while the priciest seafood dishes can weigh in at over $20, depending on market prices, the majority of the menu items are well under $10 apiece. Lunch items, available on weekdays from 11 a.m.-3 p.m., are $4.95 to $5.95.


NEWS 3/25/10 7:00pm

Relish: Saffron Moroccan Cuisine disappoints

One of the few North African restaurants in Houston, Saffron opened in 2004 to generally positive reviews. The Moroccan restaurant is located off nearby Shepherd Drive and owned by the same company that runs the Italian eatery Mia Bella next door. However, Saffron proves to have little of the charm and memorability of its sister restaurant, and instead disappoints with bland, overpriced offerings.Located on the opposite end of the building from Mia Bella, Saffron boasts an ambiance that tries desperately to evoke the sights and smells of Morocco. The heavy wooden front door is imported from Morocco, and bright yellow walls and red seats add a festive flair. However, large stained-glass windows establish much of the natural light in the large front room, which results in a surprisingly gloomy atmosphere - even for a sunny Thursday afternoon. Most noticeably, however, diners are initially greeted by the smell of stale incense. While this smell may enhance the exotic atmosphere, it is neither appetizing nor particularly appealing; in fact, we noticed a slightly foul underlying odor, which made us wonder what exactly the incense was trying to mask.


NEWS 3/11/10 6:00pm

Relish: Slow down, save some cash, enjoy Giacomo's

Since it opened last semester, Giacomo's Cibo e Vino on Westheimer Road has had Houston foodies buzzing. It's easy to see why: Giacomo's is everything that Italian dining should be, serving high-quality food that's true to tradition without putting pressure on wallets or waistlines. The restaurant, named after the owner's dog, is an unpretentious, off-the-beaten-path eating establishment that introduces customers to European Italian cuisine, a welcome break from the generic Italian-American chains that populate Houston.In fact, Giacomo's demonstrates the type of counter-style dining one may expect to see in Venice. The modern retro interior is all clean colors and crisp lines, and features a wall bedecked with colorful trapezoids, itself a representation of the up-to-date attitude of the restaurant with traditional offerings and service. Upon their entry, guests are directed to a cafeteria line, where they can choose from three types of dining. The first is cibo subito (immediate food), which includes a selection of cichetti, or antipasti, soups and sandwiches. Diners may also opt to wait a short time for cibo rapido (fast food) of pastas and salads, or slightly longer for cibo lento (slow food), main courses of pastas and meats. Our party opted for a variety of the three dining options, and everything arrived promptly. Though we at first felt overwhelmed by Giacomo's unconventional dining options, we found the wait staff friendly and helpful, as they offered suggestions for entrees and antipasti options that were not featured on the menu.